Saturday, January 23, 2010

Raft Trip at Longhu Shan ("Dragon-Tiger Mountain")

In 2004 my wife and I took a trip to Jiangxi, an inland province that, while no doubt changing rapidly, is still lagging behind the coastal regions in terms of development. (Personally, I think a little less comfort and a little more local flavor makes a trip more interesting, but that’s for another post.) While there, we visited Mount Lu and a truly poor rural village, among other places, but one experience that also sticks out in my memory is the raft trip we took at Longhu Shan.





(video by CIT)

One great thing about China is that you can truly get away from it all there, especially in inland rural areas like Jiangxi. This raft trip was a profoundly relaxing experience. Check out the trained cormorants catching fish for the fisherman on one of the rafts! (On our Yunnan Highlands Local Culture 11-Day Tour, you might see cormorant fishermen in action on Lake Er at Dali.)





(video by CIT)

Waaaaaarm beer! Peanuts! Get yer warm beer and peanuts! A bamboo raft trip at Longhu Shan: just like a baseball game, but without that loud obnoxious drunk shouting and crowding your space, and without the threat of a foul ball bashing your head in unexpectedly, and...ok, it's nothing like a baseball game; it's much better, though that beer could have used a little refrigeration. And that raft vendor could use a little more charismatic sales patter. (Our tours that include Guilin feature a raft trip like this one; those that include Kunming, Dali, the Three Gorges, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Zhouzhuang, and/or Suzhou all feature gondola or boat trips that you may find even more relaxing or stimulating.)





(video by CIT)

During the last part of the trip, we walked overland as the bamboo rafts were portaged past an impassable section of the river. It was a good opportunity to get some footage of the beautiful farmland in the area, record the deafening sound of the obnoxious local cicadas, check out an ancient Taoist temple (where an immortality pill was created by a Taoist master, who's unfortunately no longer around to tell us how he did it), and take a rickshaw ride. At one point during the walk, a local man started to talk with me, and you can hear him saying that I look like an American before the conversation is cut off. (The identification of "Caucasian" with "American" is very common in China, and comments like that always make me want to launch into a lecture about why such assumptions are wrong - but maybe he just meant that my flagrantly casual clothing and wide-eyed, foolish manner were unmistakably American, in which case I can't argue with him.) After the raft trip resumed, we watched a flashy "cliff acrobat" rappel down the side of the mountain as a prelude to a "hanging coffin" show; the area was once home to a minority (non-Han) culture that placed its coffins in grottoes in the cliff face. Unfortunately, either my battery or my tape ran out at that point, so I was unable to record what followed. (If you’re interested in these “hanging coffins,” our tours that include the Three Gorges feature a boat trip that will allow you to see similar ones.)

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